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Cutting Board Oil FOR TOY 240ML (8oz) Cutting Board Oil Butcher Block Oil Cutting Board Oil OF 20 LITRES

Cutting board Oil/Butcher block Oil /Wood & Bamboo treatment oil

foggeA completely safe, and non-toxic (complied to USP/FDA requirement) cutting board oil/butcher block oil special designed for wooden/bamboo butcher blocks, cutting boards, utensils, even kid's toys,and pretect the wooden and bamboo products from drying,cracking and splitting or absorbing food odors,protects knives and cutlery from corrosion.Simply flood the surface, allow the oil to penetrate, then wipe off the excess. Re-apply when surface shows wear.

Ayais OEM cutting board oil /butcher block oil unscented or fruit scented with top quality ingredients in 8 oz,16oz,20oz, minmum order quantity is 3000 pcs, anyone interest please contact for detail price and packing.

Mineral Oil , Beewax,lemon oil, vitamin E, carotene.

Natural Kitchen Block Oil

Natural Block Oil designed for wood and bamboo cutting boards. A completely safe, natural, and non-toxic finish with lemon oil, for any wooden or bamboo food preparation surface: Butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls,cofee grinds,and wood utensils. A unique blend of oils that penetrate, condition and seal all natural wood and bamboo surfaces. Keeps wood and bamboo from cracking, drying or absorbing food odors. Protects knives and cutlery from corrosion. Fresh lemon scent. Only the purest ingredients are used. Directions: Pour the oil onto a clean soft cloth and apply to surface. Let penetrate for 10 minutes. Polish with soft cloth.

Ingredients: Refined seed oil, lemon oil, vitamin E, carotene.

Re-Finishing a Butcher Block/Cutting Board Surface
Simple steps you can take to keep your butcher block(cutting board) looking beautiful.

About Butcher Blocks(cutting board) or other wood and bamboo products
Butcher blocks have traditionally been made from pieces of maple or a similar hardwood bonded or bamboo together to form a solid slab. Butcher blocks have been used for hundreds of years and recently have become popular in modern kitchen designs. More recently, butcher blocks have become available in a variety of imported hardwoods.

Historically butcher blocks were used for cutting meats. The thick hard surfaces were ideal for the heavy blows of a meat cleaver down to the slicing action of a carving knife. Today most butcher blocks serve more of an aesthetic purpose in the modern kitchen.

Unfinished Butcher Block

Care and Maintenance
Butcher blocks should be finished regularly with a Cutting board oil (food and drug grade mineral oil) and a beeswax coating to maintain their beauty and keep the wood/bamboo from warping and cracking. Modern polyurethane and varnish finishes that are used on most furniture today should not be used on butcher blocks. These finishes are hard and sit on the surface. Cutting on the butcher block will break through this barrier and allow moisture into the wood.

Butcher blocks are made from natural wood and thus suffer from the effects of moisture. Too much moisture will cause the block to swell. Too little moisture can cause the wood to dry out and shrink causing cracks. These problems can be avoided by keeping standing water and moisture (such as liquids from meats) from sitting on the surface of the block. Simply wipe the block dry when you are done.?

Winter months bring dry air and this can cause the butcher block to loose moisture and dry out as well. Placement of the block near a washing machine or stove can also cause the block to dry out. Regular applications of mineral oil is the best way to ensure that your butcher block keeps from drying out. A top coat of beeswax finish not only helps to smooth the surface, it also helps to repel water.

Sanding if Necessary
When refinishing a butcher block, you may wish to sand the surface of the wood/bamboo to remove old stains, scratches and marks. Sanding can also be used to remove a polyurethane or varnish finish that was applied by mistake.

A random orbital sander is ideal for the sanding process. If the wood/bamboo is in rough shape you may want to start with an 80 grit sandpaper. As you sand the block smoother and smoother, it is important to "work through the grits". This means that each time you sand you use finer and finer sandpaper. Each finer grade of sandpaper will remove the scratches left by the previous grade. An example of this is to start will an 80grit sandpaper, next use 120grit, then 240grit, and finally 400 grit. If your butcher block needs only modest sanding, you can start with the 240 grit and finish with the 400 grit. Depending on your desired finish, you might skip the 400 grit sanding.

When sanding out gouges and scratches, keep in mind that if you don't sand the top evenly you will end up with "hills" and "valleys" in the top. If you concentrate your sanding on one scratch to "get it out," you will end up with a valley. Antique butcher blocks probably already suffer from this and you should probably just consider them "character marks".

Oil Protection
There are numerous oils available for butcher blocks/cutting board and other food /beverage preparing equipments. Some companies market them as special "Butcher Block Finishes" or "Mystery Oil" or "cutting board oil" . or Food Grade Mineral Oil as this is what is really in the bottles. (not mineral spirits - this is paint thinner)

Applying Mineral Oil

You do not want to use olive oil, vegetable oil, or other organic or food-based oils. These finishes can become rancid and sticky with regular application and time. It won't hurt the block but it will cause an odor and can impart a taste to food prepared on the surface.

The mineral oil can be applied to the surface with a rag or sponge. It's very simple to apply and difficult to make a mistake. Simply wipe it on the surface and watch it soak in. When the wood won't take any more oil, you can wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth. Don't worry about applying too much oil - more is better.

New or old butcher blocks that have become dry may need 5-10 coats. Once a block has become conditioned, regular applications of 1-2 coats on a monthly basis are recommended. A beeswax finish should then be applied for optimal performance.

Beeswax Top Coat
The beeswax topcoat is an optional addition to the re-finishing process but is well worth the time. The beeswax sits on the surface of the wood in contrast to the oil that soaks into the wood. As a result the beeswax fills in pores and gaps that thin oil can't bridge. This helps to keep moisture, bacteria, and other contaminants from getting into the wood surface.


Applying Beeswax Finish

The beeswax is an excellent natural moisture barrier. You can test this by splashing water onto the block and watching it bead up. If water sits on the surface for a long time it can cause the wax to turn white in color. The finish will typically go back to normal when it dries out. You can also wipe on more finish at any time. Remember, with a butcher block it is important to keep the oil in the wood and the water out.


To apply the finish, simply wipe it on with a clean cloth. The beeswax is a soft paste that has a similar consistency to that of a shoe polish. Excess finish can be easily buffed off with the cloth. Once the finish has had some time to dry it can be buffed to a shine. The beeswax polish also helps to add a low-luster sheen to the wood's surface. Typically, only one or two coats are needed. The finish is safe for food contact and is actually edible! It can also be used on cutting boards and for kids toys and cribs.


Regular Maintenance
Regular (monthly) applications of mineral oil followed by beeswax finish as described above should be used. Once the wood has been properly conditioned, the re-applications of these finishes will take far less time, effort and materials. The mineral oil can be applied over the beeswax finish.

Water on Wax Finish

Food Grade Mineral Oiland Beeswax butcher-block finish in 2oz and 8oz can be purchased online , We also offer a Butcher Block Care Kit that includes an 8oz bottle of Mineral Oil, 2oz can of Beeswax, a pair of Non-latex gloves, and a cotton cloth.

A cutting board surface is
never "Finished" - the oil is a
continuing Treatment, not a finish.

Another finish that works well is pure Raw Tung Oil (USE ONLY the RAW Tung). This oil is from the nut of the tung tree. Raw Tung Oil dries by oxidation. Several coats will be needed; apply at 24 to 48 hour intervals to allow curing. This finish may be maintained by replication of tung oil monthly or some use a Butcher Block oil such as Nature Oil daily or as needed to maintain the surface.

NON Cutting Surface
Butcher Blocks & Wood Tops

For professional spray application:
Conversion Varnish is a excellent choice for wood counter tops that will NOT be used as a cutting surface.

For on site brush application:
Butcher Block type counter tops, especially those containing a sink or stove top are best protected with a film building finish such as the Behlen Salad Bowl Finish (an FDA approved Urethane finish). Wood counter tops that will NOT be used as a cutting surface may also be finished with Salad Bowl finish.
Several coats Must be applied to seal the wood from moisture. The advantage of the ˇ°Salad Bowlˇ± finish is an easy to clean stain resistant gloss finish that will retain the new look much longer than an oiled finish.


Butcher Block Care & Maintenance

Butcher Blocks are made from real wood. Wood is a natural material that responds to changes in temperature and humidity. These changes set up tremendous internal forces in the block. Their shape and dimensions will change with the seasons. If warping or edge cracking appears it is related to uneven changes in temperature or humidity. Keep your block dry, away from heat and allow it to dry evenly. Regular oiling helps to prevent these problems because it keeps water from entering the board. Sometimes this finish will give the impression that the block is wet, the top is ready to use.

By following a few easy usage rules and maintenance steps, the life of a butcher block is almost unlimited:

  1. Wash your block by hand only using anti-bacterial dish soap and warm water. Do not submerge the block! Add a small amount of bleach or vinegar to the water for extra bacteria killing power after chopping bacteria carrying foods such as raw chicken. You can also rub the block with a half a lemon to kill bacteria. Our blocks are not dishwasher safe. Thoroughly dry the block after washing. When possible allow the block to dry standing up on edge to help the block dry properly and prevent warp.
  2. Periodically oil the block with butcher block oil or mineral oil. Letting the block dry out because of a lack of oil is the #1 cause of problems with the block. You can't oil your block too much! Oiling will help keep that beautiful sheen.
  3. Do not allow liquid to stand on the block for a long period of time, it will stain the block and cause the wood to expand, causing glue joint failure and warp.
  4. Use a steel scrapper or sandpaper as needed to keep the top smooth and free of deep cuts and food buildup, then re-oil the top.
  5. Work with different areas of the block to help it wear evenly. Both sides should be used if the design allows to extend the life of your board. Do not use a razor sharpened edge on your clever it will chip out the wood.
  6. Do not expose tops to excessive heat, cold or moisture! Never put in microwave or dishwasher. Never place on stove burners.


Problems and How to Deal with Them

Problem Cause Solution
Edge Cracks and Splits Excessive dryness from lack of oil or exposure to heat.

Small splits in the end grain can be expected. Most of the time this is only a cosmetic condition and needs no attention. But if you want to fill the splits, use a good wood filler. After filling the split, let the filler dry, then sand off any excess and re-oil.

Small splits and cracks also can be filled by melting a 1 to 4 mixture of paraffin and mineral oil and use to fill cracks. Re-oil.

Warping Imbalance of moisture content between top and bottom. Apply oil liberally to concave side. If not corrected within 2 weeks, tape plastic to the convex side and oil the reverse side every day. Top will adjust to new humidity.
Wind Shakes - small portion of wood grain lifting up from table Grain separation, excessive dryness. Clean and dry top. Apply small portion of white glue to piece of paper. Slip paper under the shake and remove, leaving some glue behind for adhesion. Please heavy weight on area overnight and let dry. Remove any excess glue using light sandpaper or fine steel wool. Work only with the grain, not against it.
Stains Allowing food to remain on the top too long. Use lightweight sandpaper on stain and re-oil. Stain will dissipate in wood grain over time. Work only with grain, not against it.
Gouges, Dents External influences. Simply sand out imperfections and re-oil.
Dark Streaks in Wood Natural coloring of wood No repair is needed - adds to the individuality of your butcher block.
Oil Residue Build-up of excess oil. Clean excess oil with mineral spirits and then wash with soapy water. Dry.